Author: Archana

Once a Physiotherapist now a Wordsmith. Field Botanist. Bonsai. Proud Indian. Fauji Wife. Doting Mother and Mother-in-law. Devoted Grandmother. Reluctant Cook. Happiest on a road less travelled. Enjoying the middle ages!
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Heritage Walk

A heritage walk in Pune! While we vaguely knew about the history of the Shanivar Wada or the gram daivat (Kasba Ganapati and Jogeshwari) we were very curious to know if there were any remnants from the time that this city arose and developed. We have read about and participated in heritage walks, walking tours of other cities in the world… Reading a book and walking along simply would not recreate history. It had to be a guided walk…

Our wait was finally over with a walk organised by Nature Walk and Creative Outdoors with Sharveya Dhongde as the expert. It was an amazing experience! He ably recreated the atmosphere of a bygone era as we visited some ancient temples that are not commonly know and recounted the related history as we went by.
The ‘walk’ began punctually which is quite a feat for Puneites who are notorious for their disregard for punctuality! This boded well for the next few hours…

A chance meeting with Shri Pandurang Balakawade a famous historian was an added unexpected bonus as he shared his knowledge with us – right there, outside the Kasba Ganapati. A great coincidence indeed! I made the mistake of not carrying a pen and my faithful dairy hence this post is based on my recollections. There are bound to be some gaps which I intend to correct as and when I do get correct info. Please bear with these shortcomings…


First mentions of Pune were in the 11th, 12th and 13th century literature as a tiny settlement on the banks of the Mutha River. There are references to temples, some of which still exist and are worshiped. Our walk that began at the Shaniwar Wada covered some of these sites namely the Kedareshwar temple, Kasba temple, Tambat Ali, Trishund Ganapati, Nageshwar temple, ruins of an old ‘Kot’ built by a Bahamani king and Dhakta Sheikh Salla. The Punyeshwar and Narayeshwar temples do not exist now.

In the above period, making bangles out of shells from Gujarat and a type of pottery was a predominant occupation of Punekars in that era. They traded spices and cotton cloth via ports on the western coast with European countries. The town was pretty tiny then and limited almost only to areas around the present Kasba Peth. Three major odhe (streams) flowed down from the Bhuleshwar range of the Sahyadris and through the town. Easy access to water may have been one reason for the habitation to prosper.

Some time in the former half of 1600s the city was destroyed by Adilshah of Bijapur and a donkey led plough was said to have been used to raze the city. It was only when Jijbai and her young son Shivba came to Pune with the dream to set up the Maratha empire that Pune got a second life. A golden plough was said to have been used to plough the ground to rejuvinate agriculture… Gradually the town grew as did the power of Shivaji… Prosperity came to Pune.
After Shivaji, the Peshwas contributed extensively to city development.

We got a first hand impression of narrow byelanes (called bol, ali in Pune) which were part of the ‘Peth’ development. Street planning in the later Peths is more organised and plot sizes based on use (narrow deep plots for business areas and bigger squarish plots for the then cantonment area in Sadashiv Peth). Dwellings in Kasba Peth were very close – uncomfortably so for us present day urbanites! Yet several hundred years ago it must have made sense to live close together to ward off enemies…

During their reign (from somewhere in the 1710s), the Peshwas created many lakes around Pune and redirected the three main odhe (streams) by building pipelines. This not only freed up land for construction but became a water source since the river water could not cater to the by now rising population. These masonary pipes were tall enough for a man to stand up in and exist till now.

History and growth of Pune during and after the Peshwa rule, during the British Raj and the Independence struggle is available more freely. Most vade (square residential buildings) that exist now are from this period.


It was a wonderful three hours, a journey back in time to learn how this city arose. We appreciate the organisers efforts and Sharveya Dhongde in taking us on back in time. We look forward to more such walks!

Cheers!
Archana
While authorities have made some efforts at restoration or protection of such historical sites more needs to be done. I have included links to some web articles with more information about places mentioned in this post. Do share any historical information or links to them so we all are better informed.
http://www.dnaindia.com/india/report_700-year-old-temple-to-be-restored-by-pmc_1540045

http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2002-12-10/pune/27294289_1_fort-mutha-river-kasba-peth

http://www.intach-pune.org/html/18thcenturypune.html


http://www.hindujagruti.org/news/990.html

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Kas Pathar

Today is World Tourism Day.
While tourism as an industry may focus on getting more leisure travellers to visit different places I think discerning travellers must include an annual visit to a disappearing forest or biodiversity hot spot or some historical monument threatened by urbanisation etc. Its important to take our kids along so they are aware of things that may be extinct by their adulthood and inculcate a sense of responsibility and conservation in them.

Uttarkhand’s Valley of Flowers is a very famous destination in India mainly in August. It demands some level of fitness and not many may be ready for this trek. Maharashtra has its own ‘local’ zone of endemic and ephemeral flowers at Kas Pathar.

The western ghats have several lateritic plateau at different altitudes and Kas is near Satara. It is characterised by several rocks and a thin layer of soil, strong wind, heavy rain etc. While the plateau is almost bare for a major part of the year, come rains its springs into life. Herbs that have been resting for all this while, sprout and grow rapidly and flower by end of August each year. The species found in Kas are unique to this region and cannot grow else where. In the next few weeks, several such species will complete their lifecycles for the year…
Thus each week presents a visual treat for nature lovers as the plateau bursts into a carpet of colours – a different colour (hence different dominating species) each week. The brilliant yellow Smythia’s nod energetically as if ‘mickey mouse’ himself is welcoming the visitor! Tiny purple Bladder worts (Utricularia purpurascens) are an amazing natural wonder as the about one finger length tall plant systematically devours tiny insects to survive! Drosera is yet another insectivorous plant seen here…. The lucky few can see the orchids (Habenaria heyneana or Habenaria panchganiensis) or the Topli karvi (Pleocaulus ritchiei) that blooms once in seven years…

If you can tear your eyes away from this carpet then watch the clouds flirt with the sun and let the occasional shower drench you or bathe in the golden sunlight or let wisps of the rolling mist wrap itself around you. The monsoon is still active in Maharashtra in August and September and shutter bugs may like to avoid a rainy spell. The drive to and from offers stunning views and the rolling countryside seems a world apart!

If you plan to visit Kas Pathar, avoid travelling on weekends. If you must then reach early (by 8AM) so you have some quality time with the beautiful flowers! Traffic is almost unholy on such days and best avoided by sincere nature lovers. Do not walk on the greenery

While there are several photographs that may attract you remember that nature follows its own rules and thousands of visitors every year have left a mark on the environment there. Hence the blooms may flower at their will at their own time. The floral carpet may change from year to year but its up to us to make sure we facilitate its growth every year!
Cheers and Happy Travelling!
Archana

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My tryst with Kas Pathar

Kas Pathar…
One of my must-visit destinations this season spurred in good part by photos of what seemed like an endless carpet of flowers on this plateau (pathar). An earlier visit to this so-called Maharashtra’s Valley of Flowers was quite literally rain washed hence a second trip was absolutely called for.

So again we went, a group of enthusiastic amateur botanists making the best of a Sunday by a visit to Kas Pahtar. Accompanied by experts, armed with books and field guides and magnifying lens’ and cameras we expected to have a ‘rich’ haul in terms of a visual feast, botanical information and of course photo ops for the shutter bugs!!

And a treat it was… Kas is a lateritic plateau on the western ghats at a distance of about 22 kms from Satara via a long narrow uphill road that offers breathtaking views of the town, lake and water bodies below. Being September, the marigold fields were a shock of orange amid the postcard perfect view.

The flowers that bloom in August and September every year in Kas are endemic (specific to the weather conditions of this area- heavy rain. thin soil layer, strong wind, mist etc) and ephemeral (last a very short time) and the species may be lost forever if destroyed. Trampling by humans, vehicles are some avoidable factors. We had read reports of the local authorities banning vehicles from entering the ecologically sensitive plateau acting on environmental concerns. Hence we were not surprised that our bus was stopped about 6 kms short of the plateau. At last, the authorities seemed to have got their act right!

The trek to the plateau in blazing sun was made less weary with our efforts to identify trees growing on the roadsides. Our walk was constantly interrupted by vehicles zooming past us, all speeding to the plateau. Yet the number of vehicles kept on increasing and we seemed to be the only people walking up. The sole bus meant to ferry people was soon seen stuck amid several vehicles all trying to enter the plateau.

(You will need to click on this image to see the row of cars in the distance)

As mentioned before, this is a very narrow road with minimal space adjoining it, no laybys hence quite incapable of dealing with what was by now an army of vehicles and hundreds of over enthusiastic tourists. They walked all over the flowers, plucked or uprooted the delicate blooms, the vehicles drove over all over them and one family was even seen to have brought their dog along….

Thankfully we did not see a trail of plastic and other waste on the plateau. Miscellaneous vendors were not visible either… small mercies in an other wise ecological nightmare.

The beauty of the flowers was marred by traffic nightmare, thronging crowds and vehicle emissions. The police were in sufficient numbers but their actions did not seem effective at all. The Kas plateau was overrun with vehicles just that the thing the authorities claimed to want to avoid. Haphazard parking compounded woes of those on foot who at times had walk in the adjoining undergrowth as they had absolutely no place to walk.

There was no evidence of rising inflation, soaring petrol prices judging the number of cars and SUVs of all brands and high tech DSLRs (with accessories) on display.

Some blamed this as a Sunday effect but whatever the reason traffic management must be more effective. Here is my two-paise worth:

1. Limit number of vehicles to be allowed, based on the area available for parking- particularly on Sundays. Those desirous of visiting the plateau must register a day prior or pay a toll for the same. I am told that the number of vehicles entering Tadoba sanctuary per day is limited at different gates. A similar strategy can be adopted here. This road leads to Bamnoli and Vasota ahead hence such a rule can hamper their travel plans.
2. Do not allow private vehicles at all. Provide sufficient and frequent buses from Satara and to Kas on holidays for the duration of the flowering season.

I am told the story is entirely different on working days.

Dont let this account put you off. The Kas plateau is indeed worth visiting but here are my tips to make your visit more memorable:

  • Avoid weekends and Thursdays (that is an industrial holiday in Pune)
  • If you must go on a Sunday or Saturday, leave early and reach Kas by 8AM. That will give you a good two hours before the crowds descend and beat the sun as well.
  • Carry your own food and plenty of water and carry waste back with you
  • Walk on the tracks or rocks but never on the flowers or grass or greenery
  • Do not pluck or uproot the plants

The season may be nearing its end for this year. You can still catch them else wait for another year. More about the flowers themselves in another post..
Lets all work to conserve Kas so we do not have to say ‘Kash’! काश!!
Enjoy!
Archana

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Sacred Groves (Devrai)

My first visit to a Devrai (as sacredgroves are called in Maharashtra) was both scary and exhilarating. Scary because I was walking over a thick carpet of dead leaves not knowing what lay or lived underneath with the sunlight barely filtering to the ground throughthe dense tree canopy. Exhilarating because I had the opportunity to see decades old trees that had survived Man’s relentless tree cutting due to unshaken faith in the residing deity in that forest. Some trees looked so huge that the cement statue was possibly installed later… So what came first, the idol or the trees?? 

The sequence is immaterial, the preservation of species is what matters.This has happened because according to folklore one is not supposed to take away anything from a devrai, no flowers, leaves, twigs, seeds.. nothing. That may have helped protect these trees from being destroyed in the insidiously growing cement jungle and kept it out of the clutches of the money-minded “land lobby”.



Loth, a tree seen in a devrai near Pune

Vatoli


The only sounds to be heard were our feet crunching on the leaves, birds chirping as they possibly discussed our presence in the devrai with their brethren(friend or foe?) and insects that set up the ocassional crescendo ending in an abrupt silence. The silence compelled us to stop meaningless discussions and focus on the beauty that lay before us.
 
Next time you are driving on a high way, do take time to walk through one and let the pervading peace seep into your very soul.
Visit these links to learn more about sacred groves in India and their locations:
http://www.ecoheritage.cpreec.org/innerpageof.php?$mFJyBfKPkE6
http://edugreen.teri.res.in/explore/forestry/groves.htm
Cheers!

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Here they come…

Come September and my eyes are uncontrollably drawn to the stately Buccha trees that soar up to five storeys high… Its the blooming season for Millingtonia hortensis, locally called Buccha. There are several Buccha trees on my daily walk/cycling route and these are just about breaking into their first blooms. The next couple of months promise to be a fragrant delight for all those walking/ living near this tree…

According to the book “Trees of Pune” this is an exotic tree originating in Burma. Yet they grow quite comfortably in Pune and in plenty, with most trees lining our main streets… The tube like flowers can be easily woven (pleated) into a veni (like a small garland) . Millingtonia hortensis belongs to the Bignoniaceae family and rarely fruits in Pune but I am told that fruiting does occur in Mumbai.

One shower or a strong breeze and the white flowers come drizzling down, a beautiful sight resembling a shower of stars!! Walking is a pleasure while Buccha is in bloom and every morning there is a veritable flower carpet under the tree.

Am I going overboard with this description? I dont think so. If you haven’t already noticed this lovely blossom then do so…. you will not be disappointed!
Cheers!

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Ganesha in our lives

2011 Ganesheshotsav in Pune was marked by heavy rains and a river in spate for over 3 days in a row. That is not something fresh in our memories. Inflation, security issues, poor roads not withstanding people celebrated with gusto either by bringing home the Ganesh idol or in a community celebration in their neighbourhood.

While the Mutha River is a trickle for the best part of the year, environmental activists cry themselves hoarse about pollution and disregard for whatever water does flow there. This reaches a cresendo in this festival as tradition requires the idol to be immersed. The debate begins right from the type of idol rather the material from which it is made- idols made from ‘shadu chi mati‘ (a type of river mud) are said to be the appropriate ones and they are supposed to dissolve easily when immersed. The other popular material is Plaster of Paris and idols made of this may not dissolve. This not only creates a religious issue of semi dissolved and water soaked idols that have to disposed off later but the water is said to get polluted. The ‘nirmalya‘ or floral offerings have to disposed off as well.
Most people have accepted the idea of recycling and do give the nirmalya at special collection boxes kept for the purpose. But idols is another story. We noticed an interesting phenomenon at one visarjan ghat today:
The approach to the river was lined on both sides with placard bearing activists: those on my right urged people to immerse idols in the specially built ‘howd‘ (water tanks) and those on the left urged immersion in the river. Personnel from the Fire Brigade were at hand to actually immerse the idols in water.
While official figures will be known later, for the half hour that we spent, most people chose to opt for the River. The two photos below speak for themselves.
Most immersions ther were of small idols (usually of individuals or families) or slightly bigger ones (probably a community celebration) and probably the situation may have been different later, we were there quite early at around 3PM.
I know of families who immerse the idol at home itself (the ones made of shadu chi mati). They claim it dissolves in a couple of hours and they use the water in their plants and for neighbourhood trees. The nirmalya is recycled at home itself.
Ganesha is the Sukhkarta, Dukhaharta,Vighnaharta .
After 11 days, we miss him at home.
Ganapati Bappa Moraya, Pudhachya varshi lavkar ya!
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Fishy encounter

This was on fishy encounter where the enjoyment has continued for a long time…
Let me explain.
For days we meant to visit a restaurant called Masemari on Tilak Road (it belongs to Lalan Sarang- an eminent actress in Marathi theatre) and specialises in coastal Maharashtrian fish cuisine. Somehow the thought of reaching the crowded congested Tilak Road had successfully sent us to other eating joints in the city.

However on this particular day we set off on our two wheeler determined to net this catch!!
Masemari situated a few steps off Tilak Road (near Hotel Girija) and we could park right outside the hotel itself but the by lanes had plenty of empty space. This seemed like a good start (oh yes it was, just read till the end…)

There is a fairly big model of a ship on the gate which was quite clear in the dark but may be interesting at daytime. Being Shravan, there wasn’t much of a rush.

The restaurant is not very big and is quite cozy. The wall decorations leave you in no doubt of its food specialty! While I knew of some Konkani food preparations I was not quite prepared for this huge range. The staff was both courteous and knowledgeable about their offerings. They helped clear our confusion and we finalised our order. Sol kadhi was a must, Pomphret and butter garlic Mussels followed accompanied by Vade and Amboli. We wanted to order more but there is only so much that two persons can consume however tasty it may be…

I heavily recommend all fish lovers to vist this restaurant. They deliver at home in a three kilometer radius.

Here is the best part.. I reviewed this restaurant on Zomato (we had referred to this website for the address) and I WON the weekly prize in their Write for a Bite review contest!
This has encouraged me to try out new restaurants and yes review them as well.
You can too. Visit Zomato.com
Enjoy!

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Corruption in our daily lives…

Any newspaper, TV channel that we currently turn to is in an reporting -overdrive about Anna Hazare’s fast and the youth ‘involvement’ that is sweeping the country. I am not qualified to comment about the Jan Lokpal or its government version. However as an ordinary citizen I have faced situations that demanded ‘Laxmi darshan’ or similar to expedite any work I may have.

Let me elaborate.
The commonest one that each one of us probably is guilty of is ‘making deals with God’ when our wish is fulfilled. This may mean a visit to the particular place of worship, offerings (in the form of cash in the hundi/coconut etc), lighting candles/offering a ‘chadar’, some people walk (for several kilometers) to the temple and so on. The offerings vary subject to the ‘size’ of the wish granted and deep pockets of the recipient!
We had offered a pooja at small temple (the residing deity was claimed to fulfill devotees wishes) outside our base in Assam when we finally received our luggage after two months. The truck was delayed and its owner simply could not trace it. It had all our earthy possessions and their loss would have set us back by a princely sum. Besides spending huge amounts on STD (this was way before the current telecom revolution) we really could not do anything. More about that another time..
Coming back to my point, what are we to consider such offerings as? Or is this to be excused as its not made to a living person?
We often pay a few hundred rupees at government offices to ‘hasten’ our work. Pay a couple of hundred to avoid the ‘test’ prior to a learning (driving) license, add a few blue/green/ red notes to the designated amount to ‘facilitate’ easy registration of property, avoid paying a fine when driving through a red signal and so on… We justify these as saying that the agent makes some money and we are actually helping provide a livelihood to someone. Sounds a bit far fetched but yes, I have heard these arguments.
Come election day (either for state or central or local level) many people (this includes those other than in the ‘youth’ category) take off for a weekend break or holiday and do not vote. ‘What difference does it make?’, ‘Will my vote make any difference?’ are some reasons to justify this flight from exercising their duty. Some claim that we need electoral reforms. When a particular doctor’s treatment fails to provide relief to our complaints, we change the doctor. Politically, voting is one way to make a change.
Anna’s fast has driven India’s youth and middle class away from their AC offices/ homes furnished with newly gained affluence onto the street to raise a voice against the corruption menace. I hope it forces them to think and think hard about corruption. I would like to see this ‘josh’ sustained into the future, much after the current matter is resolved.
The new law (in whatever form) will work on larger issues but what about our daily lives. Are we ready to make sacrifices, face hardships just so we don’t pay anything under the table? Are we ready to pay the fine for our vehicle not having a valid PUC certificate? Are we ready to stand in queues for a domicile certificate and ready for it being rejected?
My apprehensions about corruption were totally unjustified when we re-entered civil life after our stint in the Services. We could get whatever licenses, agreements we needed without greasing any palms. Of course it meant repeated trips, standing in queues but we received our documents before our Patience snapped. That experience only restored my faith in the system.
Those following global developments will agree that foreign and western ‘rich’ nations face corruption as well (it may take different forms). While many readily point accusatory fingers at India and our systems, its for us, to repair any faults. If we don’t do so, who will?
Its when each one of us (ok let me not be ambitious- lets keep that most of us) vows not to grease palms, not to use money to expedite our work that Anna’s agitation will have long lasting meaning and make a fundamental change in our though processes.

Does this sound too simplistic? Probably yes. But small wins will add up to huge gains. Else it will be like having beautiful house thats being eaten up from inside by white ants. Or a lovely attractive physical body being eaten up by diabetes and heart disease.

Before I end, this is a good time to recap the inspiring timeless ad by Times of India:
Tum Chalo Toh Hindustan Chale. Watch it here (at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?)v=pFs5vWxW-vc
Jai Hind!
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Street food surprises

We have been reading and drooling about street food delicacies available in Pune during the holy month of Ramzan. Never really made the effort of actually going out to sample the goodies. Last week however it was Determination with a capital D that drove us away from our computers and out on the streets.

The article in Sakaal served as a starting point and after consulting Google ‘Baba’ for local maps, we zeroed in on Babajaan chowk in Camp…

We reached there just as the last rays of the sun disappeared from the horizon. Camp with its low rise British era buildings was bathed in a warm golden glow. The determined would be dazzled by the glimpse of the changing colours of the Shravan evening sky, that is, if you could tear your eyes away from dodging kamikaze two and four wheeler traffic..

While we had a general idea of its location, asking shopkeepers and cart vendors was unavoidable. They probably thought we were gluttons of the worst kind, who kept asking for ‘biryani kuthe milel?’ (where can we get biryani?).

Hence the sight of the covered pandal and wafting aromas at Babajaan chowk reassured the surging gastric juices that a return to varan bhaat was not imminent!

My apprehensions about cleanliness were largely unfounded (for the time and day of our visit). Various stalls were arranged in the periphery with several seating arrangements in the centre along with the cashier and coupon seller. One could consult the menu with him or better still, take a walk around the stalls and check out what was on offer. In our case, we ended up getting more confused as to what we wanted to eat. Finally one could only consume so much and importantly our trip was self sponsored! So indulging on dishes we did not want to eat was out of question!

There were kababs of many kinds all sizzling and spattering on coal beds. Aromas from the biryanis and kebabs and rotis and parathas of different kinds rose up to engulf and smother us. They competed as it were to be on our order list! And the meal was completed with delicious phirni and doodhi halwa!

Some difficult decisions finally made, we got our food packed and headed home though eating there was not uninviting. Prices were reasonable and the experience was ‘priceless’!

Before Id, do make it a point to check out these khau galli’s, you will be pleasantly surprised!

Other areas you can explore are Rasta Peth and near Azam campus.

Yenjoy!
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Music to our ears

Its been a long long time since my last post! And I have been shaken out of my lethargy by some really outstanding news, information that I would like to share with those who may not have already read about it.

Music lovers its time to rejoice again!

While we have been moaning about the demise of WorldSpace Satellite Radio, activities were on behind the scenes. This online article on VCC circle (http://www.vccircle.com/500/news/timbre-media-to-ring-in-%E2%80%98worldspace-radio%E2%80%99-once-again) has brought back the smile to our faces, cheered the heart and generally got most of us in a thoroughly upbeat mood.

A newly formed Bangalore-based company Timbre Media will soon start broadcasting music as we knew and loved on WorldSpace. Formed by a dedicated group of ex-WorldSpace personnel, the company will deliver music to us via the broadband Internet, DTH and cable. Their efforts are indeed commendable as they have gone great lengths to get this project off the ground. This is another article on the topic (http://business.in.com/article/tipoff/worldspace-radio-is-back/26912/1).

Of course this means we can now freely sell our old WorldSpace antennae and receivers as scrap as that equipment will be useless here. But who’s complaining?

The joy of listening to uninterrupted ad-free radio is what most erstwhile-WorldSpace subscribers will willingly take up.
This is indeed music to our ears!
Cheers!

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