Close Encounters at Chilika

Orissa has been on my bucket list for a very very long time and finally I made it there! A state rich in culture, heritage, art just to name a few… Despite not being a birder, I was keen to visit the famous Chilika Lake and it turned out to be a unique experience. We arrived at the ‘boarding’ point at Mangalajodi and the frail looking long narrow wooden boats raised more questions in my mind than reassurance.. Without giving my mind a free run, I quickly entered the boat and made myself at home at the assigned seat. Suddenly I was at the water level and the world around me seemed to be at my eye level…



A bird’s eye view, as it were…

Escorted by a local guide, we set course almost immediately. Our boatman used a bamboo to push the boat which ensured our ride was non-polluting. It did however make me renew my commitments to weight reduction! The boat glided smoothly, its silent passage broken only by the breeze whistling through the Phragmites karka and wave ripples tapping against the hull. Birds in the surrounding wetland seemed undisturbed by the occasional putter of a motorised boat which seemed like a cacophony to my ears.


Armed with a  brand new binoculars, I could see the birds up close and as my husband described it, ‘ as if we were watching a colourful silent movie!’ I can now understand what is it that makes people fanatic about ‘birding’!


The borders of the Chilika lake at Mangalajodi has several water channels that run in between grassy islands. However humans cannot really walk on these our guide said, as our feet sink in the slush- a fact confirmed when I sighted a fisherman whose legs sunk in till his knees as he walked around manipulating his fishing net.


I watched in amazement as the brilliant Swamp Hens made merry and they seemed to be the most populous members! Their iridescent blue plumage was a striking contrast with the green shades of the aquatic foliage. The slush did not seem to bother the Black Tailed Godwits as they waded easily searching for food. The islands were a hive of activity with the busy orange-legged Black Winged Stilts, Whiskered Terns, Golden Plovers all of whom failed to disturb the graceful Purple Heron. It stood rock still observing its prey and hopefully was successful.

Chilika, Mangalajodi
Swamp Hens and Egret

Our boatman seemed to know the channel routes and steered the effortlessly through the numerous watery-lanes and by lanes without a map or GPS! The guide preferred to lend his binoculars to us and could identify a bird species from a distance with his naked eyes. 


Wow!

Heron

As we moved deeper into the lake, our boat changed direction and the sun was climbing up to its zenith which meant I got a free ‘heat treatment’ for my back. Yet the Cormorants seemed to be enjoying the very same golden rays! Their wings spread out like a magician’s black cape as they looked disdainfully at their brethren. The three types of Egrets tested my new found identifying skills! Did the Little egret have a black beak and yellow claws with black legs or was it the Great Egret?? 

Which Egret?

Suddenly we spotted an incoming Harrier that circled and swooped in search of a prey and an Egret flew away with a distress cry that warned others of possible danger!


The Northern Pintails were the only ones who seemed to be swimming, giving photographers their best angles from a safe distance. The orange-brown Brahminy Ducks flew as a couple, in a majestic flight. In the distance, the Black Headed Ibis and Open Billed Storks tirelessly pecked for food undisturbed by the surrounding overly active Asian Pied Starlings.


Birding, birdwatching, ducks, Mangalajodi



There was plenty of activity near the tall reeds as well. The Clamorous Reed Warbler was well.. clamorous in a perfect camouflage with the tall shoots of the Lesser Indian Reed Mace. The Painted Snipe stood still in meditation as a lone Kingfisher sat on a pole surveying its territory.


Chilika, birding, travel
Whiskered Terns and Kingfischer

And when our expert from Foliage Outdoors excitedly, called for silence, I knew we were on to something special. He pointed out to a rare Crake, whose feathers glowed a lovely brown, maroon and red! Now I know the inspiration for my grandmother’s prized Paithani… 
🙂


A Bronze Winged Jacana tiptoed over floating leaves unmindful of humans gaping at its stunning colours.


All in all it was a rich first encounter. One in which the birds successfully won my attention from the diverse aquatic flora. I am sure I have got some names wrong and missed several species but I am happy with this lot. Does it mean I will switch loyalty from trees to birds… 


Nah! Not yet!


Brackish water, reed, chilika, Orissa





Brackish water, Chilika, Orissa





Bird photography is not my skill and I hope my words alone will spark an interest in birding among the ignoramus. If I have succeeded then Foliage Outdoors is among the best resources to embark on an amazing friendship with feathered friends.


Cheers!


Information:
This is not a sponsored post.


The website of the Chilika Development Authority has detailed info. 


Click here for a comprehensive list of bird species at Chilika.


Mangalajodi Ecotourism offers clean basic food and accommodation and birding trips.



Godwit Eco Cottage is another option. 


This page on the BirdLife International website lists some aquatic plant species.

Unanswered by Kunal Narayan Uniyal

I read, a lot, both online and the old fashioned paper books. I buy a few but I source most of my books from a library. What I don’t do is review books. The reason is simple, some one has given all they have and more to create something (possibly unique) and I dont think I am best qualified to comment on it. However, I do comment whether I like the book or not, do I recommend it or not and so on… 


Recently, I happened to read an e-version of a book called Unanswered by Capt Kunal Narayan Uniyal, which was sent to me by Novemberschild @romspeaks . The Publisher is Samaya Sakshaya




What sparked my interest was the name… Unanswered. Would it be a Mystery/Thriller/Romance?? Nothing had prepared me for what I eventually read… an intensely philosophical book. It is the author’s spiritual journey put forth in a combination of text and prose. It is the result of extensive introspection and reading of ancient texts. If you are looking for light reading, then this is not for you. 


Capt Uniyal discusses various concepts like Immortality, Morality, Ego, Pain and Suffering, Death, Religion. He has also put forth his thoughts in the form of poems. An unusual and effective style that brings forth his thoughts and ideology as the author has mastery over both prose and poetry. The chapter the got me totally interested was the one dealing with What are prayers and Why do we pray?  Yet another very interesting chapter is ‘The Chosen One’ where Capt Uniyal writes about people who have walked a different path. He concludes this segment with, “…  Know that you are the chosen one; know that you are different; know that you can bring new hope and make a difference to mankind. You are an individual soul, climbing the stairs of evolution, faster and higher than your counterparts. Alone walks the chosen one, who dares to think. But he is surefooted and knows, without looking back, that someday the trail carved by him will be walked upon !…” 


Whoa!!!


‘Unanswered’ is highly recommended for anyone who thinks beyond the mundane existence and is reluctant to read the accepted ‘texts’ for answers to questions that would obviously arise from the said thinking. This book will be the first stage that will prepare the thinker/reader for an in-depth journey into the search for peace, tranquility, truth and maya.  


A word of advice, do not rush through the book, instead read it one chapter at a time. Think, introspect about what the author has to say and reread the chapter if required. Only then move on. 


Stay Happy everyone
🙂

River Walk And A Cry

Pune is lucky to have not one but two rivers flowing through it – The River Mutha and River Mula. They come together at a spot commonly called Sangam and flow as the MulaMutha to join the River Bhima and then onwards to the River Krishna and eventually empty into the Bay of Bengal. A really long east-ward route for the rivers considering they are pretty close to the west coast of India but then I guess geography must decide their course! I confess my knowledge was very limited till I went on walk called ‘Nadi Kath Che Pune’ with the Prof Ghanekar which was part of the Virasat Pune Heritage Festival 2014. What an eyeopener it was and one that totally changed my approach towards Mutha. I say Mutha because that is the river closest to me but the Mula is not excluded. 


Obviously any discussion about the Mutha is incomplete without a mention of the floods of 1961 when the Panshet dam burst causing massive destruction of life and property, the scars of which may be evident even now. Several ghats along the river were washed away, many trees uprooted, homes and families destroyed forever. 


Nature has a way of making its presence felt, especially when people take it for granted. Many of us don’t even know their names, a sad state indeed. Recently I came across a group of enthusiastic ecology lovers who also love the city of Pune and specifically its rivers. The Jeevit Nadi has taken up the mantle of reconnecting Punekars with its rivers and their Muthai River Walk successfully does that. 

On a chilly December morning I joined a fairly large group of people for this walk which began at the Vruddeshwar Siddeshwar Ghat. 
The sky blushed with the rising sun to welcome us, an awesome sight indeed. As walks go, the distance covered is not really large or strenuous but it subtly focuses on the sad state of affairs there. 

Pune, river, mutha



Brrrr… 6.8deg C that morning

The guides took us back several thousand years, as they narrated a mythological story about the origin of these rivers. Believe it you wish or dont… either way its an interesting tale. Based on the artefacts found on the banks of the river, the river may be older than the Ganga, they added. 


Phew! 

Standing on the river bed, we are at the lowest spot in the city. On either side, the Mutha can be seen to be meandering in gentle curves through Pune. I had never realised this aspect of the river course till I stood at that spot. 


There are several interesting sites along the river, some historical, some religious but all point to the river’s importance in the daily lives of people of Pune in the days gone by. Bapucha Jhara near the Omkareshwar Mandir is the most interesting as it is a perennial source of water. 



Possibly a couple of hundred years ago, once the city residents no longer had to depend on the river for their water requirements (development of underground water ways by the Peshwas and later due to construction of dams followed by modern municipal water distribution systems), they slowly got disconnected with it. Eventually an apathy has crept into us about our natural water resource and heritage. We take it for granted.


River, Mutha, steps, water
Residences alongside the river had steps leading right up to the bank. Here is one… 


We walked along trying to imagine the flora and fauna that flourished here and not too long ago. Salix  tetrasperma, Wild Date, Cyperus rotundus, Polygonum glabrum, Crinum viviparum, Homonoia riparia are among the riverine plant species, of which only one Salix tree still exists… Avian friends like the Pheasant tailed Jacana, Pied Kingfisher have long left the Mutha… 


The river is dammed hence whatever water is seen flowing on the Mutha is water that has been used – domestically and by industry. Pune is located not far from where the river arises and it i
s the first major urban settlement on its course. There is no need to describe the pollution we Punekars pour into the river- the sight and smell along the course is sufficient to pierce every conscience. 


On that day, I learnt about the things we can do at an individual level that WILL make a difference. All that is required is a minor change in our lifestyle, in the products we use – one at a time. 

Here are some images that force us to sit up. Think. Act. Today… Instead of the annual attacks of consciences that we suffer on Ganesh Immersion days. 


RIver Walk, pune, river clean up
Mural of the Lakdi Pul seen along the river near the Poona Hospital



Lakdi Pul, river, clean up
Below the iconic Lakdi Pul (photo not during the Jeevit Nadi Walk)



If you are too lazy to walk and prefer a journey from your arm chair then, the following book is for you!

“Muthekathche Pune” by Prof PK Ghanekar gives the history and geography of Pune on the banks of the River Mutha

Obviously there is much that the authorities can do but possibly the will is lacking. I read an article in The Telegraph that the River Thames was biologically dead at one point in time. As a result of massive efforts to clean up and undo the damage, the Thames has become clean and beautiful again. 

Surely we can do something similar here in Pune.


Hyacinth filled river (Photo taken on Anant Chaturdashi 2015)

I have seen some old paintings or photos from the British era that show a beautiful flowing river. obviously Pune is much bigger now, and the dams mean water is used by Punekars yet surely, some of the river’s glory can be restored.  I pray for the day when the River Mutha and Mula regain their beauty. 

So if you are looking for something different to do this weekend, take a walk by the Mutha River. 
Can you hear its cry for help?